Credit: Paige Green
The process of creating a garment is as intricate as it is ancient, with each step—farming the fibers, spinning the yarn, and stitching the final product—holding its own story. Yet for many, the connection to the origins of their clothing has been lost to mass production and distant supply chains.
Allison Reilly, a textile and clothing designer and shepherd based in West Marin, holds a BA in Fashion Design with Knitwear from Central Saint Martins in London, UK. She brings a unique blend of expertise to her work, having gained experience in contract grazing, dairy, and fiber-focused sheep operations. As the animal manager at Black Mountain Ranch, she currently raises Jacob and Churro sheep, along with Huacaya and Suri alpacas.
At the heart of Allison’s approach is the principle that process shapes the final product. She follows the thread backward, developing a deep connection with every stage—raising sheep, shearing them, hand-processing raw wool, spinning yarn, and weaving fabric into the final garment. Through this hands-on approach, she honors the generations of shepherds, shearers, millers, and fiber artisans who have mastered and stewarded these traditions before her.
The journey begins on the land, where Allison ensures her sheep are healthy and well cared for. At Black Mountain Ranch, they are integral to both fiber production and land stewardship. She raises heritage breeds like Jacob and Churro sheep, whose wool provides rich texture and natural color variation. Beyond producing high-quality fiber, these sheep contribute to pasture health through their grazing.
Sheep are central to Allison’s work and philosophy. She recalls a shepherd once describing sheep as “grateful animals,” a sentiment that resonated deeply. To her, sheep embody reciprocity, offering wool, milk, and meat while also providing ecological benefits like improved soil health and plant diversity. This holistic approach to farming and fiber production reflects the deep connection between land, animals, and craft—each step is essential to the final piece.
When it’s time to shear the wool, Allison participates in the process with great care. She attended shearing school at the University of California Hopland Research and Extension Center, an experience she describes as one of the most challenging things she’s ever done. The physical demands of shearing are immense, but what makes it especially difficult is the balance required between the strong, effective handling of the sheep and the gentleness needed to ensure their well-being. Shearers must work quickly while minimizing stress on the animals, all while operating potentially dangerous machinery. Unfortunately, the number of skilled shearers in the U.S. is declining, as many seasoned professionals are aging out. Programs like Hopland’s Shearing School are vital for bringing in the next generation of shearers, teaching both the technical aspects of the craft and the importance of animal welfare.
While Allison continues to refine her shearing skills, she relies on the expertise of seasoned professionals like Chris Cornett of Cornett Ranch in Tomales. A top competitive shearer for decades, Cornett still runs a shearing crew while managing his home ranch and several large seasonal grazing contracts. Mentors like Cornett are invaluable to Allison, shaping both her skills and her sense of purpose.
“The agricultural side of my work has given me the greatest gift of genuine community, providing a sense of support that seems so rare in other industries,” she says. “In my experience, ranching brings people together and makes us family. People show up for each other in good times and bad because we know that at the end of the day, our community is our backbone.”
This sense of community extends beyond the shearing process, weaving a rich tapestry of shared knowledge, skills, and mutual respect. It reflects the enduring value of mentorship, where experienced ranchers, shearers, and craftspeople pass down their wisdom to the next generation. The deep bonds forged through this work foster collaboration and support—principles that lie at the heart of ranching and craftsmanship, both of which Allison strives to embody in every garment she creates.
Once the wool is shorn, she carefully processes it by hand, carding or combing it to prepare it for spinning. The yarn she creates varies in thickness and texture, allowing her to achieve specific qualities in the finished fabric. This hands-on approach ensures control over the yarn’s consistency, a crucial factor in the durability and beauty of the final garment.
Spinning the yarn is a deeply meditative and rewarding step for Reilly, where the rhythm of the wheel connects her to generations of fiber artisans who came before her. Allison’s love for craft took root early. By the age of nine, she had taught herself to knit using internet tutorials, and by 15, she was teaching classes at a local yarn store. Her students were often older women, fostering an intergenerational sense of community that became central to her work. These shared experiences shaped her understanding of how craft transcends individual creation—becoming a bridge that connects people across time, generations, and knowledge.
Today, Reilly continues to seek connection and wisdom from a community of women spinners, knitters, and sheep ranchers in their 70s, 80s, and 90s, meeting with them monthly in Santa Rosa. This group has gathered for decades, raising children and grandchildren while sharing meals, recipes, gardening tips, and knitting patterns.
“Their generational knowledge of these crafts and the region we live in is invaluable to me,” Allison says. “It gives so much depth and context to everything we create.”
This connection to her community and the wisdom passed down through generations continues to inspire and shape her approach to craft and design
With the yarn spun, Reilly moves on to weaving, where raw fiber transforms into fabric. She carefully selects the weave structure to balance beauty and function, ensuring the textile is both strong and visually striking. Her weaving highlights wool’s natural textures, colors, and forms, as she believes its diverse characteristics are often underrated. The result is fabric that is both practical and artful, reflecting the skill and artistry at the core of her work.
For Allison, design is never about trends. “Fit, cut, tailoring, and design are important,” she explains, “but just making clothes didn’t feel meaningful enough to me. It had to relate to something bigger.”
When sewing her fabric into a finished garment, she draws inspiration from vintage pieces that honor its bespoke quality. Each piece is meticulously constructed for both function and beauty, with fine details like hand-stitched silk buttonholes enhancing its craftsmanship. Her design ethos prioritizes durable, functional staples—made to be worn, repaired, and cherished for years.
Looking ahead, Allison plans to develop a product line that balances accessible ready-to-wear with custom, high-value creations—pieces that reflect her values and inspire a deeper connection to clothing’s origins.
Her journey—rooted in artistry, land stewardship, and respect for animals—shows that clothing can carry stories and foster connection. “When you understand the process, you’re not just making something—you’re preserving traditions, supporting your community, and creating something truly meaningful.”
Using only natural fibers, Allison ensures each garment can be worn, repaired, and eventually returned to the earth. Her work highlights the deep relationship between land, animals, and craft, honoring tradition while shaping a future of intentional, lasting clothing.
Follow Allison on Instagram @allisonmayreilly