The textile industry is at a turning point. Microplastics pollute our waterways, mass textile production strains ecosystems, and consumers are increasingly distanced from the origins of the materials they use every day.
Amid these challenges, new models are emerging to reconnect people with the land and labor behind their textiles. These systems are grounded in real people—farmers, designers, and makers—and the ecosystems that sustain them. By rethinking how fibers are grown, processed, and used, innovators are creating pathways to a more equitable and regenerative textile future.
One of these innovators is Laura Sansone, whose work with New York Textile Lab is helping to rebuild these connections. By fostering relationships across the supply chain, her efforts are creating a new value chain that embodies true care and value in every step—from soil to finished product.
NY Textile Lab, a Fibershed partner, is a design and consulting company founded on the principles of regionalism and sustainability. The Lab creates textiles that embody deep value through ethical and transparent sourcing practices. By fostering relationships between small-scale farms and independent designers, the Lab is helping to grow a more diverse and equitable textile supply ecosystem. “Our goal is to empower designers to make better decisions about their social and environmental investments,” says founder Laura Sansone. “We believe textile production should grow out of regenerative systems that emerge from collective thinking, not extraction and scarcity.”
The New York Carbon Farm Network, organized as a purchasing cooperative, connects small brands and independent designers with farms implementing Carbon Farm Practices such as rotational grazing and composting. It is one of seven partners in the Climate Beneficial Fiber Partnership, which includes organizations like NY Textile Lab and Fibershed. Together, these partners work to create collaborative solutions for sustainable fiber sourcing, with the Network serving as a vital link between producers and designers. By fostering these connections, the Network supports the adoption of practices that improve soil health, sequester carbon, and ensure traceability in the supply chain. It is a model for how regional and cooperative efforts can drive meaningful change in the textile industry.
These interconnected efforts show how decentralized systems are reshaping the textile industry, making it possible to achieve environmental and economic goals without relying on large-scale, centralized production. Through the following experiences of Ben Wood at Pinecroft Farm, Laura Sansone at NY Textile Lab, and Leah D’Ambrosio at Wol Hide, we can see how these models are already working in practice and how they could inspire broader adoption across the industry.
FIBER PRODUCTION | Ben Wood: Pinecroft Farm
Pinecroft Farm, nestled in central New York, began in 1985 and evolved through two locations to its current 175-acre spread. Ben Wood, who grew up on a dairy and sheep farm and later worked at Cornell University for over 30 years, returned to farming at Pinecroft Farm after retirement. “I started with a focus on lamb because of the high local demand,” he recalls. “Wool wasn’t really part of the equation at first.”
Ben’s journey with Pinecroft Farm is deeply rooted in the challenges and transformations of the local wool industry. Like many farmers in New York, Ben faced systemic hurdles, including limited markets for medium-grade wool and high transportation costs for processing. For years, wool from farms like his struggled to find buyers, with producers sometimes holding onto two or three years’ worth of stock.
Recognizing these challenges, NY Textile Lab Founder Laura Sansone saw the potential in Ben’s farm and Romney wool and invited him to join the Climate Beneficial Fiber Partnership. For Ben, joining the program was a pivotal moment, offering both a renewed purpose for his wool and an opportunity to address systemic hurdles. “We weren’t able to sell wool until this program came along,” he says.
Beyond creating market opportunities, the Climate Beneficial Fiber Partnership also aligned with Ben’s vision for a more sustainable and resilient farm, providing essential support for establishing new carbon farming practices. “This project fit perfectly with my goals of farming in an environmentally sound way and revitalizing the wool industry,” Ben says. He began incorporating carbon farming practices, scaling up rotational grazing and composting, which not only sequester carbon but also improve soil health and wool quality.
Though Ben’s carbon farming progress is ongoing, and reporting on outcomes will take place over time, the impact of these practices is already being felt. By focusing on Romney wool, known for its unique qualities that make it ideal for spinning, Ben has enhanced his farm’s reputation. The Climate Beneficial Fiber Partnership has also allowed him to think beyond Pinecroft Farm, inspiring other producers to explore similar paths. “This project isn’t just moving my farm forward; it’s a spark for regional change,” he says.
Ben’s work with the Climate Beneficial Fiber Partnership is not only building a more sustainable future for his farm but also contributing to the revitalization of the regional wool industry. “It’s a chance to bring back what was once a huge part of this area’s identity,” Ben says, “and I’m proud to be part of that transformation.”
FIBER CONNECTION | Laura Sansone: NY Textile Lab
Laura Sansone’s work with NY Textile Lab has created a vital connection point between fiber producers, designers, and markets in the Northeast. A textile designer and educator by training, Laura’s passion for regionalism and sustainable practices led her to establish the Lab. “I’ve always believed that our textile systems should reflect the interdependence of the people and places that create them,” she says.
NY Textile Lab functions as a hub where fiber producers like Ben Wood and designers can collaborate to bring Climate Beneficial™ fibers to market. The Lab’s cooperative purchasing model allows small-scale farms and designers to pool resources, creating opportunities for high-quality regional fibers that might otherwise be overlooked. “Our goal is to ensure that both farms and designers have the tools and connections they need to thrive,” Laura explains.
The Lab has also emphasized transparency and traceability in the textile supply chain. By fostering direct relationships between producers and designers, Laura has helped reshape how fiber is valued, ensuring that each piece of the puzzle—from the soil to the final garment—is celebrated. “It’s not just about making products,” she says. “It’s about creating systems that support people, animals, and the land.”
Laura’s work has been a spark for change, proving that regional textile systems can be both economically viable and environmentally impactful. Through the NY Textile Lab, she continues to bridge gaps in the industry, demonstrating that when farms and designers collaborate, they can transform not just how textiles are made, but the stories they tell.
Learn more about Laura’s work and vision in this exclusive Fibershed interview.
TEXTILE DESIGN & PRODUCTION | Leah D’Ambrosio: Wol Hide
Leah D’Ambrosio, founder of Wol Hide, is a textile designer who believes that simplicity and sustainability can coexist beautifully. Based in Philadelphia, Leah established Wol Hide with a vision to create easy, thoughtful garments using natural and organic materials to minimize environmental impact. “I’ve always wanted to design pieces that not only feel good to wear but also carry a story of care—for the environment, for the people who make them, and for the people who wear them,” she says.
Leah’s collaboration with NY Textile Lab has allowed her to expand on this vision by incorporating Climate Beneficial™ fibers into her designs. “Working with Laura and the Carbon Farm Network has added so much depth to what we do,” she says. Through this partnership, Leah has been able to source Romney wool from farms like Pinecroft, blending it into her seasonal collections to create garments that highlight the unique qualities of regionally produced fibers.
“It’s almost like wine,” Leah says. “Each year’s fiber tells a slightly different story in terms of texture and color. It makes each piece feel special and connected to the land it comes from.” That variation informs her design process, inspiring her to let the fibers themselves guide each collection. “It’s an ongoing dialogue between the land and the craft, which is incredibly rewarding,” she says.
Scaling Wol Hide hasn’t always been easy. “When I first started, it was hard to find mills and producers willing to work with the smaller quantities I needed,” Leah recalls. “Working with Laura and the cooperative model she’s built has been a game-changer for small brands like mine.” The cooperative purchasing model allows designers like Leah to access high-quality materials while ensuring steady support for farmers. “It creates a cycle of mutual support that aligns with my values,” she says.
For Leah, working with NY Textile Lab is more than a supply chain decision; it’s a way to participate in a larger movement toward regenerative textile systems. “It’s inspiring to be part of something that’s changing how we think about production,” she says. “For Wol Hide, growth isn’t about becoming huge; it’s about doing things better and building deeper connections between people and the materials we use. Programs like the Carbon Farm Network show us that thoughtful collaboration can make this possible.”
A Path Forward
This decentralized approach to textiles—rooted in collaboration, sustainability, and transparency—is a powerful reminder of what’s possible when systems prioritize care for people and the planet. From Ben Wood’s carbon farming practices at Pinecroft Farm to Laura Sansone’s work connecting fiber producers and designers to Leah D’Ambrosio’s thoughtful designs at Wol Hide, these stories demonstrate that a more equitable and regenerative textile future isn’t just an idea—it’s already taking shape. By fostering these systems and scaling their impact, we can move closer to a world where textiles reflect not just utility, but value, stewardship, and connection.